I’m back in Mumbai and back with my sweetheart. It feels so strange and yet familiar. The biggest adjustment that I’m going to have to get used to is my new home — a one bedroom apartment in the complex shown above. It’s a vegetarian, alcohol free, conservative Gujarati area in the suburbs. Clearly we don’t belong here!
I feel completely overwhelmed. The apartment is small and needs decorating. I don’t know where to start with it. The standard of living is so basic. Paint is coming off the walls. There are mosquitoes and pigeons everywhere, not to mention all the people crammed into this apartment complex. Whole families, including grandparents, sharing small spaces.
I’m assured that this is a decent middle class Indian living environment in Mumbai though. I don’t doubt it.
One good thing though — we have piped gas. The importance of that can’t be underrated, as encountering an empty gas bottle during cooking is extremely frustrating. Especially as it may take days to get a refilled one!
And the most important thing — the apartment complex is peaceful. Unlike many buildings in Mumbai, it’s not on a main road. There are no traffic noises at all.
So where to we live? In Kandivali West, just off Link Road, in Mumbai’s outer northern suburbs. We pay 10,000 rupees ($300) per month for a one bedroom apartment. It’s a fast growing area, with lots of malls around, and the beach only 10 minutes away.
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Hi Sharell,
I discovered your blog from June’s pages and now regularly read it. It is interesting to see my country from a non-native resident’s eyes and I enjoy the experience very much.
I am shifting back to India from UK and will start living in Mumbai from coming October. Since my office is in Goregaon, I was looking at Kandivali for a reasonably prices one-bedroom accommodation. I am 25, single girl and of course, safety and convenience are prime concerns while looking for a house. But I would also like to live in a (relatively!) greener and pollution free neighbourhood. Do you think Kandivali is a good choice? My agent suggested it along with Mulund and Powai. How has the experience of living in a Gujrati Co-Op building been? I am fiercely protective of my privacy and would resent any nosy aunties eyeing my friends, my daily movements, dressing sense or food! Your blog seems to suggest that I am in for a disappointment. Is it true?
Hi Naina, hmmm, you have a tough choice as there are good and bad things about both Powai and Kandivali. (I wouldn’t recommend Mulund. It’s a bit too out of the way). Powai definitely meets your criteria for greenery and less pollution. It’s a really attractive area and lots of foreigners live there, which is testament to its desirability. The only drawback is that it’s a bit isolated. If you live in any apartment complexes like Royal Palms (in Aarey Colony) you can only get a rickshaw from outside the gate. You can’t just walk downstairs to the market like in other localities, because the whole complex (it’s a really big area with a lot of buildings) is enclosed. Therefore, if you stay there, try to get an apartment in a building near the gate. To be honest, I don’t enjoy living in a Gujurati co-op very much. I really feel like the odd one out! They might be less interested in you because you’re of Indian descent though. I also don’t know if you’re a vegetarian or not, but the Gujurati co-ops aren’t keen to rent apartments to non-vegetarians (we got an exception because our landlord is young and more relaxed). The good thing about Kandivali is that there are shops everywhere, everything is so accessible. There are two sides to Kandivali though — east and west. We live in the Gujurati dominated west. But in the east there’s the Thakur Complex — another modern apartment complex — which is also popular with foreigners. It’s located just off the Western Express Highway. It’s also a bit isolated though. So your decision is whether you want to trade convenience for greenery. If I were you I’d probably tend to go with Powai, since it will more resemble the kind of life you’re used to! Hope this helps. Do let me know where you get a place
Hi Sharell, Thanks for taking out time to reply.
) To me, Mumbai resembles more of Western U.P (Uttar Pradesh) than a sprawling metropolis. I am totally in love with Bangalore and given a choice would never live anywhere else in the world..sniff..
I have even been asked by agents if I am bringing a ‘partner’ along. The concept of me renting out a place of my own is alien even in Mumbai..and I am freaked out about safety and privacy..not to mention trying not to be killed of lung cancer in an year’s time. Whew..thats a rant! But you get the general drift..
Hmm.. I have lived in Mumbai for a brief period of time a couple of years back and don’t like it very much. I am originally from Delhi (and don’t like it either!
But because my life is that of a corporate robot, I need a house in Mumbai, and soon. So its not a question of the kind of life I am used to, I am your typical dal-chawal-maruti 800-driving-like-crazy-Indian thorough-and-thorough. But more about, should I have to live in a pigeon hole they call ”good safe PGs for girls” just because I am a single working girl and on my own, and apparently have no need for a decent house because home is where Mummy Papa are…
I read you guys pay 10 k for rent! Thats exorbitant! I was not looking to pay more than 8 k (including water, electricity etc), but I guess I have to (slightly
) readjust my budget, especially if as you suggested, Powai is the most comfortable choice. Just looked at some of the rental ads… and died of nervous laughter. Rates start at a cool 25 k. Hahaha.
Hopefully, will even get to catch you live sometime, when I am finally in Mumbai. Will also keep you posted on which side of the Borivali National park, I finally end up in.
Anyways, not to hog your blog for personal angst…just want to say, thanks so much for your opinion. I would of course, shadily keep coming to your blog while I pretend to work in between boring powerpoints at office.
Cheers!
Haha, l love your sense of humour! We definitely must meet up when you arrive here resigned to your fate!
It could be good for our sanity. I agree, rental prices are a rude shock. For what you get it’s appalling, and indeed very confining! Bandra is even more frightening. 60,000 rupees per month rupees for a one bedroom apartment is common there. Our rent has in fact gone up to 11k now, and the landlord still insists it’s a good deal. It’s a decent enough place by Indian standards (which leaves a bit to be desired by western standards!), but no luxuries (ah, well I guess the fact that we have 24 hour water and a hot water geyser is a luxury! lol). Ah, so you’ve already faced the suspiciousness and scrutiny of the unworldly folk here. 
You’re lucky you’re not a guy. It’s even harder to find a place to rent if your a bachelor. I feel your pain over it all. I remember when I was trying to rent a place in Kolkata, I was interrogated by the prospective landladies, who insisted on curfews, no alcohol, and no members of the opposite sex. 
Jeez, don’t stay in paying guest accoms though, otherwise you really will end up with no privacy… and a curfew! Have a look at places on Magicbricks.com — there should be more reasonably priced listings on there. (Oh and one other thing to be aware of, in regards to your budget, is the hefty deposit that’s to be paid. Not sure if I mentioned it but we had to pay 1 lakh on ours, which is standard. Brokers expect 2 months rent as their fee too). It’s just all really horrible!!
I would LOVE to meet up. Will be moving in sometime after mid-October, if the negotiations for the new role stay on track. I am not even dreaming of Bandra etc. I guess I will have to resort to living in Suburbs of Suburbs (I have been suggested Mira Road)….if I am serious about my paltry budge..
Okay, enough bragging.. will run my famished-for-panipuri-self to yet another confcall and catch you around on these pages soon. 
And having spent 2 years in a hostel early in college life, I have sworn off PGs and shared accommodations forever. Besides, I have kept my own house for a good part of past 3 years, so don’t want to turn retrograde now.
I am aware of the horrible 10 months advance bit. Have been saving like an illegal colony of ants through the summer. Why else do you think I walk blindfolded past the high streets here in UK, no matter that I live 40 mins from the fashion capital of the world. No traveling on cards too, even if I have both the coveted UK AND Schengen visas.
Oh no, not Mira Road!! It’s literally out in the middle of nowhere and infested with mosquitoes!! I have been there once. You won’t get regular trains from there either. Gawd, I’m so unbelievably glad and thankful that my in-laws sorted out our apartment before I got here, and I didn’t have to go through this nightmare. Really hope to hear some good news. And keep thinking of the pani puri!!
Sharrell: I wanted to suggest a tip regards dealing with the trash that your neighbors above you throw down below and it ends up landing on your veranda.
Inform the buidling that you plan on putting a religious shrine on your veranda with an idol or picture of an deity like Ganesh, for example. Since you are living a all-vegetarian apartment complex, I’m assuming the residents are pretty devout/observant/orthodox Hindus and they will be afraid of any negative supernatural backlash (bad karma) from throwing trash on Ganesh, Durga, etc.
Also, what’s the latest on the nosy neighbors? Have they settled down?
Oh BTW Naina, Borivali West and Charkop are decent enough areas too.
I think that’s a great idea Goridevi, but my husband doesn’t think it would work. He says kids will keep throwing rubbish, people won’t always notice the idol from the top floors of the building (6 floors), and the shrine shouldn’t be out on the uncovered balcony anyway.
So he thinks it’s taking too much effort. It seems the simplest solution is to keep getting the balcony cleaned often.
The neighbours have stopped knocking on my door, thankfully. However, they usually sit in their living room with their door open, so as soon as I open mine (or they see me coming home) they pounce on me!! Yesterday was a fine example — when the repairmen came for the a/c, they saw me answer the door and tried to get me to go to their apartment to meet another family member!! No regard for the fact that I had two repairmen come to my flat!! I told them “not now”, but it had little effect, so I had to shut the door on them after they were heading towards my flat with the family member!! These days, I’ve found a good solution to the problem though. I just don’t speak to them in Hindi anymore. The aunty doesn’t understand English, so it really limits the interaction.
Hey Sharell,
Its interesting to know that you are living in a vegeterian gujju complex/building..This is a weird trend these people are bringing that is mainly to keep the natives of Maharashtra prevent buying/staying in Mumbai and its a shock actually…The basic problem is in India the politicians have completely shut eyes about some matters and to me if we say we have democracy then people should not be banned from eating nonveg or whatever in their own house…That is completely ridiculous….hmmm..
Anyway…
My favourite area in Mumbai is Dadar Shivaji Park and I know even if I save each and every penny in US its still going to be a dream….(And ppl think there is money in US ha ha ha….)
Anyway…
Hi Aparna, I’m so fortunate that my in-laws live right opposite Shivaji Park (on that lane behind the temple where all the flower sellers congregate). They have a two bedroom apartment that they bought around 30 years ago — it must be worth a fortune now!
I’m very happy that I’ve moved away from the Gujju complex now, and am living in a beautiful cosmopolitan area. It’s made a total difference to my life, “I feel normal” here!