Adventure to Spiti India

I arrived back from my trip to Spiti, in remote high altitude Himachal Pradesh, yesterday afternoon feeling very glad that it was over. It was a difficult trip. However, the images of stunning scenery that are etched in my mind made it all worthwhile.

The trip got off to a challenging start from the beginning. Before the overnight bus from Delhi to Manali even had a change to depart, the air conditioning broke down. A makeshift repair was made. However, it was only enough to get the bus to the highway, where a replacement bus was to stop. The heat was smothering. There was a religious fair going on nearby. I couldn’t help thinking of the Punjabi roadside dhaba that I should’ve been eating rajmah and rice for dinner in at the time.

Upon boarding the replacement bus, an Indian family grabbed me by the arm and implored me to sit with them. “There’s a seat right here”. Still traumatised from my recent experience with the new neighbours, I had visions of them inquisitively interrogating me into the night. This sent me running to the back of the bus, as far away as possible, where I got to sleep alone and in peace.

Although the distance from Manali to Spiti is less than 200 kilometres, it’s not possible to cover it easily or quickly. Due to the condition of the road, the travelling time is between eight to eleven hours. It was particularly bad the day I set out, with monsoon rain turning the road before Rohtang Pass into mud. Traffic slid and lurched. Heavily laden goods carriers couldn’t move. It made the road maintenance efforts of Mumbai’s municipal council look admirable.

Upon reaching Spiti, it wasn’t long before I started feeling sick in the high altitude (4,500 metres and more above sea level). It began with a headache, then progressed to feeling dizzy. I also vomited. And got sunburned and dehydrated. Days were spent exploring the surroundings around Kaza, the main town in Spiti. Nights were spent trying to recover.

By the time came to leave, I was very relieved. But did I regret going on the trip? Never!

Here’s a selection of the highlights.

1. Seeing My Reiki Teacher

Rittu and me.

I first met my beloved Reiki and spiritual teacher two years ago, when my husband and I were living in Manali. She taught both of us Reiki. This tiny woman is a bundle of energy and love. Therefore, I was thrilled to be able to see her again. She gave me a Reiki treatment to re-balance my very unbalanced chakras and confirmed what I already knew — that I was still struggling to feel comfortable in Mumbai, and that I needed to take some time out from my work for creative pursuits. Good advice that I’m going to follow!

2. Random Balle Balle Bhangra Action

Balle balle by the Beas River in Manali.

Feeling extremely energized and positive from my Reiki treatment, I decided to walk back to Manali. On the way, I encountered a Punjabi family enjoying some bhangra music by the Beas River. I have an inexplicable love of bhangra, so how could I not stop and join in? We danced. Then they plied me full of fresh fruit, and dropped me off in Manali town.

3. The Road to Spiti

Around half way along the road from Manali to Spiti.

The drive from Manali to Spiti was long, but hardly boring. I wasn’t tempted to take a nap even once. The scenery constantly changed from the dense forested hills around Manali, to rocky barren planes, and sweeping snow covered mountains. Every now and then, we encountered a herd of animals on the road and lone figures strolling along. It made me wonder where they came from, and where they were going in such a remote desolate area.

More photos of the landscape from Manali to Spiti.

4. The Monasteries

Inside Kee Monastery, not far from Kaza.

There are five monasteries in Spiti, with each village having an allegiance to a particular one. I was surprised to find that the monasteries were a hive of activity, and full of children. These children are actually little lamas in training. I discovered that, incredibly, families are required to donate their second eldest son to the monastery. If they don’t, they must pay a fine of around 25,000 rupees. The children have the option of leaving the monastery when they turn 18, but similarly a fine has to be paid.

Not all the children seemed to be dealing with their fate well. In particular, one little boy disliked being told to study so much that he was throwing rocks at people!

5. The Villages

Langza village.

Spiti consists of a series of villages scattered though out the mountains. The total population of the area is around 10,500 people. The five upper villages, with heights of 4,000 metres and above, include the highest village in Asia (Komik), and the world’s highest village with vehicle access and electricity (Kibber).

I explored each of these villages, and was fascinated by the snapshots of village life offered. It’s an incredibly difficult life, and worlds away from the ones we live. Farming of crops is the principal source of income. Many of the villages are completely snowed in for months every year. During this time, the villagers remain indoors and make handicrafts. To get a real taste of village life, it’s possible to stay in some of the homes in Spiti and see cultural performances.

6. The Yak Safari

About to set off on the 4 hour Yak safari.

The yak safari was the most anticipated part of my adventure. The biggest threat turned out not to be the possibility of getting yak lice, as I’d been warned, but rather the temperamental nature of the beasts themselves. These yaks, owned by the villagers, roam wild for most of the time. “They have to be ridden gently and with great care”, the guides advised. “Otherwise, they’ll run off and throw you to the ground”.

My safari partner was a Punjabi Sardar ji from New York. He insisted on mounting and riding his yak completely unassisted, and would not be told otherwise. All proceeded well until after lunch, when he tried to get back on his yak. As warned, the yak took off on him. He fell into the mud, while his pagdi (turban) flew off and landed some distance away — also in the mud. It would’ve been very funny, except he broke his ankle. We were over an hour from the next village, so he had to continue on the safari with his injury.

The yaks won my heart though. They’re such strange, stocky, and strong beasts (apparently they can carry 120 kilograms!). And so fluffy as well!

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Tagged as: Travel in India