The illustrious Police Department building that the FRRO is located in. This long line is for passport services.
I just arrived home after another day at the Foreigner’s Regional Registration Office (FRRO). It was one of those roller coaster days that India is famous for, where things constantly went in and out of my favour. However, the overall outcome was positive. I succeeded in getting myself re-registered. In fact, I initially thought that the process was going to go so smoothly this time, I would have nothing to write (complain) about!
I got a fast train to Churchgate. This compensated for the time that was wasted finding a shop with a working photocopier, so that I could get the required duplicates of my documents made. (I’m still questioning the necessity of this, since my documents have already been duplicated many times and are on file at the FRRO). The lobby of the FRRO was relatively deserted, and I didn’t have to wait to see the woman at the front desk. She examined my photocopies and found all the required documents to be present.
Then, she looked at the stamps in my passport. “You’re two days late”, she informed me. “What do you mean?”, I asked in surprise. “The date on your arrival stamp is 22 March, today is 24 September. You’ve been in India for more than six months”. (For the blissfully ignorant, foreigners and Persons of Indian origin must register themselves at the FRRO within 6 months of continually being in India). Oh no. I was genuinely shocked. For some reason, I thought the date on my arrival stamp was 24 March. My life has been so hectic lately.
Sigh. I was guilty and was no doubt going to be severely punished.
However, the woman at the desk said nothing further about the matter. She simply gave me a token number and told me to go inside. Inside, the process was repeated. The woman at the registration desk examined my reams of photocopies (passport, visa, front and back page of husband’s passport, marriage certificate, proof of address, signed undertaking from my husband to be responsible for me). Then, she remarked that I was two days late. Nothing further was said about it. “Take this slip to the payment counter, pay, and come back”, she instructed me.
I looked down at the slip. 100 rupees registration fee, plus a $USD 30 late fee. Severe punishment it was. Especially when a six month tourist visa only costs around $USD 40 for many nationalities. And especially when men are relieving themselves all over Mumbai and only getting fined 100-200 rupees for the offense! At the current exchange rate, my late fee netted the Indian government over 1,500 rupees. I didn’t have enough cash on me to pay it, so had to go and find an ATM.
It was a nasty reminder that although I’m a resident of India, I’m still very much a foreigner. Fair enough, fine me. But since I’m a resident of India, why still fine me in USD? The registration fee was payable in rupees.
I guess the fine has to be suitably high because I’m a foreigner. However, as an Indian resident with a visa that doesn’t even entitle me to be employed in India, I’m hardly a wealthy foreigner. If I was an expat working here on a juicy contract, maybe such a high fine would be more justifiable. Oh well, that’s the system!
Would an Indian have argued and tried to negotiate a bribe under these circumstances, I wonder? Unfortunately for me, that sort of thing isn’t my area of expertise. Knowing I was in the wrong, I just decided to shut up and pay up.
The roller coaster continued on my way home. It was early afternoon and I got an uncrowded fast train. The journey was quite pleasant. However, the usual chaos ensured at the station when I got off. One fat aunty was determined to board the train before everyone had disembarked. I was in the process of stepping onto the platform when she grabbed me and forcefully shoved me aside, into the train doors and oncoming passengers.
Shamefully, I’m hardly civilised in these situations. To regain my footing, I launched myself into the fat aunty, making sure that I had my elbow out at the same time. It was a very padded landing!
© 2009, Diary of a White Indian Housewife. All rights reserved. Do not copy and reproduce text or images without permission.
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{ 18 comments… read them below or add one }
I’m an accountant from Mumbai who is currently unemployed in Switzerland, so I guess that makes me the Brown Indian Housewife! Your posts really bring the flavour of Mumbai, thx !
Thank you!
I met a guy recently of Indian descent but brought up in London. He called himself a Brown Englishman. There are all kinds of us out there!
You actually elbowed her? Oh my God Sharell, welcome to India!
Elbowed and pushed her at the same time. I’m very fond of using my elbows here. It’s survival of the fittest. Since I don’t have much weight behind me, I have to rely on other means.
I wont be allowed to work until I get my Person of Indian Origin card (which I’ve had to wait one year after marriage for). I’m entitled now and will apply soon, but it will probably take around 3 months for it to be granted.
When will you be eligible to be employed in India? What more godforsaken rules are there?
I miss that here in US a lot, not that I like doing that but it has its own fun
like elbowing and other things hahaha…just be careful and stay safe
I always tell me friends and family back home driving in US is so boring, you don’t have to do anything, all so much systematic so organized and so disciplined….Gosh sometimes so much of discipline also sucks…sorry for the word…whereas when I came to India in Feb, I drove all the way in Delhi from one direction to other and it was fun…I guess the the Indian in me popped out erratically…
I am sure you have started finding fun in doing Indian stuff
I agree, India is untamed and that’s a big part of why I love it! When in India, do as the Indians do….
“It was a very padded landing!
Liked that!!
Apoorv, OMG! That’s exactly what I say to people in USA! I told them that driving in America is so so so boring that I’d probably go off to sleep! I think I do need the excitement of driving in Delhi!
When driving on country highways in Australia I daydream all the time. Hardly any concentration is required. Just put cruise control on, and off you go!
Ha, Apoorv! I’m living in the DC area now, and the commute can be stressful. The other day I had the opportunity to LAY on the horn, and it felt great. I suddenly understood why people in India honk so much!
Funny post, Sharell! Those elbows are a formidable weapon, I guess! Will it really take you so long to get a PIO card? I think it took only between one and two months for me to get mine. But that was in the US…
Awe Apoorv…Chicago driving is fun…I know you love the freeway near O’Hare
Kidding, come to Boston…you can sit in traffic on 128 for a few hours, you’ll feel right at home.
Haven’t seen Boston roads as yet, though have heard about them from my sister, but I have seen New York traffic and I’m sure Delhi drivers are far more trained and disciplined than the New Yorkers. New York roads are in a choas and they don’t know how to drive. Delhi roads are the biggest chaos in the whole world but it’s organised chaos. If you look at the Delhi traffic closely and drive in it everyday, then you’ll see patterns of organisation in it. The trucks and buses will always move in a line, the bikes will always be ahead of everything else, the cars will always be in the middle of everything and the pedestrains will expertly make their way where they want to go despite of the big trucks in their way. Haha! And I confess I’m part of the organised chaos. Ooooh, I love Delhi!
Has anyone ever noticed that how all of us come together and talk about anything under the sun on Sharell’s blog? And she lets us do it! God bless you Sharell. You really help a lot of us unwind our daily stress here! Thanks a ton! Hope you let us be complete idiots forever on your personal blog space!
You know, I’m not a very strict moderator!
But seriously, you guys are welcome. After all, a blog is about sharing ideas and stuff. If it helps people feel good, then even better. It’s my small contribution to the world!
Well yeah that’s true too. Anyways thanks a ton and Good morning!
Ramit, this is my favorite place on the internet.
Thanks Apoorv for the link. 
Boston drivers are just idiots…in considerate bunch…like NYC only less of us.
And yes, thank you Sharell.
Coming from Australia to India in search of thrills and excitement!
You write so well about India and life in India