Mumbai’s local train service is the fastest way of getting from one side of the city to the other. If you travel during the day or late at night, when there aren’t too many passengers, it can even be quite comfortable. Travel at any other time though, and you’ll most likely find the alarming things you’ve heard about the Mumbai local to be true. The journey is not a pleasant one.
I took the above photo while travelling on the Western Line early one evening. It could be on any Mumbai local train though. There is simply nowhere to move. As a result, people do hang out the doors and sit on the train roof.
Getting on and off the train is a specialised skill. There’s no room for niceties. People elbow, push, and shove their way through. In the women’s compartment, this is usually accompanied by screeching and shrieking. The crowd surges en masse, like an individual entity.
I find the women’s compartment to be particularly uncivilised. The worst incident I’ve witnessed was two women fighting over a seat. One started pinching and scratching the other. Other passengers had to intervene to prevent a brawl from breaking out.
In a way, people’s behaviour is understandable though. I can only imagine how exhausting and draining daily train travel in Mumbai must be. Being subjected to such difficult conditions on a daily basis will inevitably bring out the worst. Every time I get on the train, I’m so thankful that it’s not a regular part of my life.
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I travel everyday in the 7:19 Panvel-Andheri. (Board at Nerul) for college. Given the early hours, it isn’t that bad. Ya, it is difficult to get place to sit though.
While returning, I board the 6:17 pm Panvel train from Vadala. And lol if you think it’s difficult for you, just imagine a 180 cm-tall guy with a heavy bag, a roller case, a drafter(We use it for engineering drawings.), having to push and shove through the sea of , yelling,agitated people.
I wear specs too, which are always dangerously perched at the tip of my nose, given how much you sweat at that time. So it is a pain managing all these appendages to my body.
I had started travelling by train regularly in my final year of highschool. Initially I used to get rather intimidated by all the shoving and jostling, now I have become a master at it myself. You have to forget etiquette and think about yourself. Just push away, and if someone yells at you, yell back. And use the choicest of Hindi swear words. Push and shove as if your life mattered on it. OR stand right at the door . Everytime the train halts, you’ll get pushed out by the exiting crowd, and then back in by the boarding crowd
But you absolutely cannot blame anyone for what happens. Not in the least the poor passengers, who obviously are harried, tense people with a lot of serious problems. It’s more than boarding a train for many people. For many, missing a train would mean not being able to pick their daughter from school on time, or losing their life’s savings on a failed business deal.
And it isn’t all that bad for me, since I board from a New Bombay station. The railway stations here are state-of-the-art,clean and have all the required facilities. In short, world-class, so it makes the journey somewhat more comfortable. I shudder to think what would be of me if I had to board from a place such as Kurla. I’d collapse
And the First Class Ladies compartments are generally more bearable. I mean, they look quite inviting from the outside(I’ve never been inside one
), and I guess it’s because ladies are generally more civilized than men.
But it can be fun too. I take it you noticed the Love-konas,
? Every second class local compartment always has a lovey-dovey couple standing near the door , what we call the love-konas. When I was in school we used to have a great time teasing and making fun of such “couples”, sometimes to the point of the guy giving us that sharp Amitabh Bacchan look and protectively gripping the girl 
Also if you do travel again, make sure you check out ALL the stuff people hawk inside these compartments. I got this metallic juicer for 10 bucks the other day and it’s awesome.
Anyway enough said. I’d better go to sleep or I’ll miss the 7 19 local tomorrow
.
Akshay, you’ve made the whole Mumbai local experience almost sound poetic!
Being so tall, you must have to dodge the handles hanging from the roof of the train too. The metal ones can cause a nasty bang on the head — I often hit my head on them! lol. It does sound like you have a lot to cope with on the train though. Hopefully you can use all your baggage as weapons to get people out of the way, or at least whack them if they don’t get out of the way! 
A friend of mine used to catch the train from Chembur to Churchgate while completing his internship at a company there (for an MBA), and was so drenched in sweat by the time he reached he had to always change his shirt.
I must pay more attention to the love-konas. I usually get a window seat and spend most of the journey looking out the window!
The hawker stuff is the best! I love the hawkers on the train. Ah, the metallic juicer. I saw them being sold. They were hugely popular. Almost every second person was buying one! I’ve brought a few things on various occasions including bindis, bangles, nail polish, hair clips, and safety pins!
Shaunak, unfortunately Mr Rudd is not an effective Prime Minister. I don’t know how the majority of people in Australia could’ve been silly enough to vote for him in the first place. I’m just very thankful that I’m not living in Australia now, because in all honesty, I don’t want to live there with him in power! I will refrain from saying what I think of him and his policies. Really, I dislike politics even at the best of times, and this certainly isn’t the best of times!!
Ramit — and what position will you occupy in this new “government” you’re suggesting for India? You have some good contacts don’t you? Surely you will be most useful for something!
Ya ya I’ve returned. No matter, I’ll take the 7 30 train tomorrow.
We don’t have to “project power” to become powerful. Our defences need to be strong, but we donot need to do what the West did to become “powerful.” Infact, I don’t see military/political power==prosperity. Post WWII Japan is the best example of prosperity achieved without aggression and Post-1991 Russia is the best example of military prowess not leading to any appreciable prosperity or development. We all know what a bad shape the Russians are in.
btw, RAW is rumoured to have undertaken subversive activities in Pak, including infiltrating ISI and Pak army, terrorist attacks, and most notably the famous alleged training of Afghan Bombers to carry out suicide bombings in Pak. The near-top-secret construction of the Farkhor Ayni Airbase in Tajikistan, India’s first overseas military airbase, is also noteworthy, given the proximity of Tajikistan to Islamabad 8). It’s said to be controlled by our ARC(Aviation Research Centre, which is India’s main communications espionage service), despite claims by Indian officials that we were merely “assisting” the Tajiks in building.
But we should not be focussing on gaining power, instead we should first try and achieve prosperity. Our prime goal should be to lift the 350 million people who are still below the poverty line, and educate the 400 million people who are still illiterate. That to me, is more important than throwing your weight around in the international arena or talking about Balkanisation of neighbouring countries. Because the very fact that the developed countries like the US can spend billions on dollars and risk thousands of their able troops on barbaric mass-murder excursions should, IMHO, be a matter of shame for all Americans. More so because it’s not as if developed countries are fully free of problems, is it? There are poor people in the States, people who are starving, illiterate, oppressed while their government is blowing money on bloody war games. Surely it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure who (what) needs the money more.
So this kind of projection of power is something I would never want my country to undertake. Not when there are people to be fed and educated.
And I agree with Shaunak that it makes little sense to compare ourselves with countries like Japan,Korea and Singapore. Singapore is a city state. It’s probably smaller than New Delhi.
Interestingly,even Australia for that matter. Australia’s population is about 19 million.
Because using such serious issues as excuses for your own lethargy and passivness is really not on. (Not referring to anyone specifically. Just the more well-off urban Indians as a whole.)
19 million is also the population of Bombay.
Area of Bombay=540 sq km.
Australia. Is about 50 times the size of India. so roughly 16,00,00,000 sq km. Even if one accounts for the fact that most of Australia is desert and not inhabitable, the remaining area is pretty large, larger than Bombay atleast. So the challenges here are far more complex, which many of the people who mock India ignore because it’s convenient.
I also find that it is the pre-1990(my parents’,grandparents’) generation which grumbles the most about no progress and other such nonsense. Because it’s no longer their responsibility to do anything about them. So they can cry floods of tears over the grave problems and easily put the blame on the “new generation”. That’s what really annoys me. Sometimes I feel like making such people stand in a line and shooting them. One-by-one
Akshay ji first of I enjoyed your train post…..now regarding the argument that “India is very poor we only…..need to be economically strong” which is more important than “balkanization” ….. this IMHO has been a pathetic excuse of India not wanting to retaliate…… see terror attacks and economic growth are inter related….very simple, no security, no investment, no infrastructure, no development……of course there are people who argue “we need to strengthen our police have better equipment like AKs instead of lee enfields , BPJs which are lighter, MP7 and M-4s instead of MP5s” yada yada yada…. then are also people who talk about “joint investigation”, “diplomacy” yada yada yada but when my neighbor breaks into my home and rapes my wife repeatedly I will not blame the carpenter neither will I join the rapist in a joint investigation…sorry…I will go after the perpetrator.
In International arena one only gets few words of sympathy for playing the victim…after that people move on to take care of themselves….. we need to fight our own battles…..some times covert sometimes overt…..unfortunately most times we will not get things handed down on a platter by asking for it by playing a nice guy…..Foreign policies of countries are driven by strategic needs not by morality.
For far too long use of force as a primary means to retaliate against external aggression has been seen as uncivil in India that has to change IMHO.
“For far too long use of force as a primary means to retaliate against external aggression has been seen as uncivil in India that has to change IMHO.”
Absolutely PGB!…….i agree.
As Chanakya said :”Honest people are screwed first”.
We need covert action.
Indian secret services need a “TIT FOR TAT”( or bomb for bomb) mechanism…..like we applied in the 1980s.
Akshay, you wrote: You have to forget etiquette and think about yourself. Just push away, and if someone yells at you, yell back. And use the choicest of Hindi swear words.
What works on the local train is also pretty much what works in international diplomacy. Use your superior height sometimes. Use your charm at others. The guy who depends only on the latter – even when slapped or abused repeatedly – will soon find it has no takers.
Hey! I used to think Akshay is an engg. student! Seems he is much more than that. Would make a nice economic guy plus historian plus political student rolled into one. I’m proud of you kid. Way to go.
Sharell, I could try & be the foreign minister. Thats’ something I could do well I guess. I’m not sure though!
Vote Ramit for foreign minister then! And the very intelligent and up-n-coming Akshay also needs a position. All-rounder maybe?
Lol, we’ll have a new government formed in no time at all!
Oh Shaunak, another engg. student. Way to go people! Why do you hate USA & UK? Did they do anything wrong against India or our people?
I have many classmates living in Australia who tell me it’s not so bad. They have been living in places like Mel and Syd for more than a decade now and are very happy.
Maybe the racism doesn’t bother them anymore.
I do hate China and Pak and all. The reason I hate China is very stupid. I hate them for taking my bread away. Though its not their fault.
Turkey is a major producer and exporter of cloth and garments. Their govt. helps them. Import of textile in any form is banned. That helps the turkish textile exporters.
China produces almost everything. The Chineses givt. helps them. Import of almost everything is banned in China.
India also produces everything. What does our govt. do? It kills exporters like me and opens the bloody market to imports of everything under the sun from all countries on our dear planet Earth.
Is the foreign minister listening? No he isn’t. He never did. He never will.
He’s been made blind, deaf & dumb with all the millions of money the duty makes for all the bloody imports into our country.
Some years ago, China was non existent in the international trade scene.
Now, all other countries except China are non existent. Their govt. is with them.
Simple.
Their are chances that your laptop & its battery is made in China. So is your cell phone. Also many other things.
Last month I was in US. I was looking in the market for something that I could take back home. Everything I put my hands on was made in China. That tells you everything.
You can hate Aussies all you want. But remember, Canada & Australia are the only two places untouched by the recession.
Maybe we should stop hating others and like that boy said, start to eradicate hunger and poverty and make our citizens literate first. That should help.
Pakistan can wait. They aren’t really capable of going anywhere anyways.
Thanks Sharell. But I think Akshay and PGB and Shaunak would be far better for the position that I !!!
i will be the ARMY CHIEF
and will do the First Coup in the history of India.
Dear Ramit,
As I told you earlier the poverty in India is a legacy of the British rule .The British exploited the natural resources and wealth of India for their own selfish interests . They discouraged the traditional industries of India creating poverty and unemployment , the ill effects of which persist even today . The British were responsible for sowing the seeds of hatred among Hindus and Muslims eventually leading to the partition of India on religious grounds in 1947 . Many famines occured in India during the British rule the most famous of which was the Bengal famine ( 1943-1944) which alone killed 6 million Indians . The total numer of Indians who perished during the British rule was 12 million ( more than the number of people killed in the holocaust and world war 2 ) . In my opinion Britain is the most barbaric country in the world responsible for the Irish famine , slave trade ,World Wars 1 and 2 and the rise of Hitler . In the 1930s Hitler came to prominence in Europe and rose to power to become the chancellor of Germany under the patronage of his British and American masters . The two evil countries ( UK ,USA ) thiought that they could use Hitler as a tool against the communist USSR . But history had it otherwise . Before attacking the USSR in 1941 Hitler launched the invasion of Britain , France escalating into world war 2 . The proverbs as you sow so shall you reap , those who dig a pit for others often fall into it hold apt for countries like UK and USA .
You will be surprised to know that Osama Bin Laden of Al Qaeda , Mullah Omar of Taliban , slain terrorist Abu Musab Al Zarqawi are all American creations . In the 1980s the CIA of USA and ISI of Pakistan created the Taliban and Al Qaeda for countering the Soviet influence in Afghanistan . Millions of Afghans perished in the bloody civil war that followed . In 2001 the Americans were justly rewarded for their actions when their very own creation – Osama Bin Laden’s Al Qaeda network launched coordinated suicide attacks on the WTC and Pentagon . The former President of USA – Ronald Reagon was the architect of Islamic Terrorism that haunts the world today. In the 1980s Osama Bin laden was a college student studying economics and management until the Americans brainwashed him to join the Jehad in Afghanistan . America is also responsible for murdering 3 million Vietnamese citizens during the Vietnam war ( 1965-1972 ) . The American company Union Carbide was responsible for the Bhopal Gas tragedy in 1984 that left 10000 Indians dead .
China is the greatest danger of our times . It launched an unprovoked invasion on the India in 1962 and illegally occupied the Aksai Chin area of Jammu and Kashmir .
Even today China has evil eyes on the Indian territory in Arunachal Pradesh , Sikkim and Ladakh . China also helped Pakistan develop the nuclear bomb . Indians have to perceive China as a potential threat , rival which we have to surpass .
My dear boy, my nukes are always ready for Pak & China.
You said in your comment that US created Al Qaeda and all that. Explain that in details. I’m very curious.
Plus, what did poor old dead Ronald Reagan do? How did he create Islamic terrorism? I’m very curious. Again.
I remember The Union Carbide tragedy very well. I had no idea it was an american company.
But you know what, even though all these may be true facts and all, I still would prefer to let bygones be bygones and concentrate on making the country stronger and healthier inside.
Dear Ramit,
In 1979 there was a communist revolution in Afghanistan under the Afghan communists Babrak Kamal and Mohammad Najibullah . The king of Afghanistan was ousted from power and drven to exile .This communist revolution in Afghanistan had the support of the USSR . To counter the soviet influence in Afghanistan the CIA under the directions of Ronald Reagan began training , financing and arming Arab fighters and local Afghans (Taliban) to fight against the communist government of Babrak Kamal and Mohammad Najibullah . The CIA agents pesonally visited countries in the Middle East like Saudi Arabia , Yemen and Jordan to garner support for the Jehad in Afghanistan . Even the former president of USA is reported to have visited Saudi Arabia and made inflammatory speeches inciting the youth of Saudi Arabia to Jehad in Afghanistan . Amongst the young men was a college student named Osama Bin Laden who was studying economics and management at Riyadh University . Osama Bin Laden left his studies in between and joined the Jehad in Afghanistan . Osama Bin Laden and his arab fighters united under the banner of Al Qaeda and participated in the Jehad in Afghanistan . All these development in the middle east and Afghanistan ( creation of Al Qaeda , Taliban ) had the blessings of the CIA and President Ronald Reagan . That is the reason why I call President Ronald Reagan of USA the architect of Islamic Terrorism .
Shounak says
I call President Ronald Reagan of USA the architect of Islamic Terrorism .
Absolutely true.
Neo-cons and Islamic terrorists are the TWO SIDES of the same coin.
Ab yeh Neo Con kya hota hai? :O
So Shaunak, how do we know all this is true? Are there any written texts to support this? I had no idea something like this ever happened. This only proves more that the US has always been a trouble maker and will surely one day die it’s own death in a ditch that it had originally dug up for someone else.
Did you know that the US has a very egoist immigration systems. They only give you a entry stamp on your passport. On exit, you only cross through security and you’re on the plane. You do not have to go through immigration when you’re leaving the country. I don’t want to comment on the Shah Rukh Khan case, but if the dratted TSA breaks open my suitcase once more, there would be some serious nose breaking at the airport! And they were brand new suitcases!
Dear Ramitji,
Ever wondered why the very own creations of USA – the Al – Qaeda and Taliban turned against their creator (USA) . It all began in 1991 when the American President George Bush senior invaded Iraq during the first gulf war . Osama Bin Laden and his Taliban friends didn’t like the invasion of the caliphate of Baghdad by the infidel forces of USA . A couple of years later after the gulf war, The 1993 World Trade Center bombing occurred on February 26, 1993, when a car bomb was detonated below the North Tower of the World Trade Center in New York City. The 1,500 lb (680 kg) urea nitrate–hydrogen gas enhanced device was intended to knock the North Tower (Tower One) into the South Tower (Tower Two), bringing both towers down and killing thousands of people.It failed to do so, but did kill six people and injured 1,042. Ramzi Yousef who was born as Abdul Basit Mahmoud Abdul Karim in Kuwait, spent time at Al-Qaeda training camps in Afghanistan, before beginning in 1991 to plan a bombing attack within the United States. Yousef’s uncle Khalid Shaikh Mohammed Ali Fadden, who later was considered the principal architect of the September 11 attacks, gave him advice and tips over the phone, and funded him with a US$660 wire transfer.
The attack was planned by a group of conspirators including Ramzi Yousef, Mahmud Abouhalima, Mohammad Salameh, Nidal Ayyad, Abdul Rahman Yasin and Ahmad Ajaj. They received financing from Khaled Shaikh Mohammed, Yousef’s uncle. In March 1994, four men were convicted of carrying out the bombing: Abouhalima, Ajaj, Ayyad and Salameh. The charges included conspiracy, explosive destruction of property and interstate transportation of explosives. In November 1997, two more were convicted: Yousef, the mastermind behind the bombings, and Eyad Ismoil, who drove the truck carrying the bomb.
In 1996 Israel invaded Lebanon causing a crisis in the Middle East . The Israeli invasion of Lebanon was aided and supported by USA . This invasion of Lebanon by Israel further angered the Muslim World . In the year 1998 Al – Qaeda responded by bombing U.S. Embassies on August 7, 1998 in which hundreds of people were killed in simultaneous truck bomb explosions at the United States embassies in the East African capital cities of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania and Nairobi, Kenya. The attacks, linked to local members of the Egyptian Islamic Jihad brought Osama bin Laden and Ayman al-Zawahiri to American attention for the first time, and resulted in the U.S. Federal Bureau of Investigation placing bin Laden on its Ten Most Wanted list.
Along with the 1993 World Trade Center bombing, the 1996 Khobar Towers bombing in Saudi Arabia, and the 2000 attack on the USS Cole in Yemen, the Embassy Bombing is one of the major anti-American terrorist attacks that preceded the September 11, 2001 attacks.
Finally on September 11 2001 a series of coordinated suicide attacks by Al-Qaeda upon the United States occured . On that morning, 19 Al-Qaeda terrorists hijacked four commercial passenger jet airliners. The hijackers intentionally crashed two of the airliners into the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center in New York City, killing everyone on board and many others working in the buildings. Both buildings collapsed within two hours, destroying nearby buildings and damaging others. The hijackers crashed a third airliner into the Pentagon in Arlington, Virginia, just outside of Washington, D.C. The fourth plane crashed into a field near Shanksville in rural Pennsylvania, after some of its passengers and flight crew attempted to retake control of the plane, which the hijackers had redirected toward Washington, D.C. There were no survivors from any of the flights.
In total 2,993 people, including the hijackers, died in the attacks.The overwhelming majority of casualties were civilians, including nationals of over 90 countries.
Thus we see that it is the Americans who precipitate crisis in the first place by giving aid and encouragement to wrong doers and when attacked by the same wrong doers , try to devise ways and means of eliminating these villains .
With people like Akshay,Shounak, Ramit,Nik around, i am sure India has a bright future ahead………
India’s youth(myself included) are second to NONE in the world!!!
Keep rocking guys.
Jai Hind
I agree, you’re an intelligent bunch!
I wish I could claim to have such in depth knowledge about world affairs.
OMG Shaunak! I had no idea how all that originated! By the way, my parents were really lucky, they landed in India on September 10 morning. I am so thanking my stars that they did not stay back even a day longer!
Oh and maybe Shaunak should have his own blog and should write about all of these world affairs. I for one would love to know about all this!
(Please don’t tell me you already have your own blog and also write about all this and I had no idea till now)
Hello..
Came across your blog while googling for infos on Mumbai’s local train/local transportation. I’ll be in Mumbai for a trip and was wondering if I ought take the Mumbai local to get around, if it is the quickest way. I like taking local transportation anyways when in a foreign city so I get a better feel of the city. And in the case of Mumbai, figured taking the local train would mean avoiding traffic. I only have 2 days in Mumbai before travelling up to Rajasthan and Delhi.
Can you recommend any good places to eat local food? Any exceptional markets to check out and places to see? Have a few places I would like to see like the usual – Gateway of India, CST, Malgaldas Market/Chor Bazaar, Haji Ali Mosque, Hanging Gardens and Elephanta Island
Hi arle, where will you be staying in Mumbai? The train is really only useful for travelling from one side of the city to the other (north to south, or the other way around). To avoid the traffic you should just avoid travelling around early in the morning and in the evening, when it’s really bad during peak hours. (The trains are also packed during these times). By all means, take a trip on the train just to experience it though! It IS an experience, that’s for sure! If you stay in Colaba you could go by train to Mahalaxmi station from Churchgate, then take a taxi to Haji Ali. The dhobi ghat (huge open air laundry, another worthwhile attraction) is also next to Mahalaxmi station.
Mumbai doesn’t have many good markets unfortunately (unlike Delhi). It really depends what you want to shop for. I’ve compiled a list of 5 of the best ones though: http://goindia.about.com/od/shopping/tp/best-mumbai-markets.htm
What kind of food do you like to eat? Are you a vegetarian? If not, Mohammad Ali Road (near Chor Bazaar) has excellent street food. It’s a Muslim area, so it’s good if you like meat. It’s all very fresh. Would you like to eat more restaurant food though? Tell me what you like and I’ll suggest some places.
All those places that you’ve listed should keep you busy for the two days! I’ve also put together a list of the top 10 attractions in Mumbai. Sorry, I don’t mean to keep referring you to my work, it’s just the quickest and easiest way of giving information!
http://goindia.about.com/od/whattosee/tp/mumbai-top-attractions.htm
Happy travels!
Hi Sharell, it’s no problem at all. Thanks for the links I’ll check them out. As for now, I don’t have a place to stay and I know that I’m kinda pushing it considering it’s peak season. Looking for some decent hotels (even though I’m suppose to be on a backpacking trip) in town that’s somewhat closeby to the areas I’m planning to go see. Any recommendations.
As for food, since I’m in India I’m gonna have to say Indian food
. I’m from Malaysia so definitely looking forward to trying some authentic local indian food. Most probably restaurant food cause I’ve been warned to avoid street food just in case I might get food poisoning. Though street food are always the best!
Unfortunately, Mumbai is a really expensive city to stay in. Money doesn’t buy much when it comes to hotel rooms. If you’re looking for a budget hotel, Bentley’s in Colaba is popular. http://www.bentleyshotel.com/ It gets mixed reviews though, and rooms are located in 3 separate buildings. Here are some other good budget hotel options that I’ve selected: http://goindia.about.com/od/wheretostay/tp/Mumbai-s-Cheap-Accommodations.htm And some mid range hotels: http://goindia.about.com/od/wheretostay/tp/Mumbai-s-Best-Budget-Hotels.htm
When it comes to food, Indian food is very diverse depending on the region that it’s from. However, you really must try a thali. That’s a huge platter which comes with small amounts of lots of different types of dishes. One recommended place in south Mumbai: http://www.goldenstarthali.com/index.htm It’s located near Charni Road station (near Marine Drive Chowpatty beach). Rajdhani is also good. It’s located opposite Mangaldas Market, near Crawford Market. http://www.rajdhani.co.in/
Another highly rated restaurant central to where you’ll be is Khyber. It serves wonderful north Indian cuisine. http://www.khyberrestaurant.com/
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