Minding my Manners in India

by Sharell on October 22, 2009

in Culture Shock in India, Daily Life in India

Last night, my husband and I accompanied my sister-in-law and her husband to dinner at a friend’s place. It was the same friends whose 25th wedding anniversary celebration I attended earlier this year.

The friends always invite me to functions, and I’m always usually honoured to go along. However, last night was a bit of an ordeal for me. I wanted to go to the dinner, but I didn’t want to leave our apartment. I haven’t been feeling so good since the shock explosion (that is, cracker) right near my ear during Diwali, which made me half deaf for a day. I feel anxious and unsettled, and don’t want to be around any loud street noise. (Which means that I don’t want to go outside).

I made the effort to attend the dinner because I didn’t want to disappoint anyone. However, to be honest, half way through the night I wanted to run away, and jump on the first plane home to familiarity. I felt so lonely and out of place.

My experience with India is very changeable. When I’m in good health and spirits, I feel capable of dealing with whatever situation I’m in. When my health isn’t that good, I feel tense, overwhelmed and claustrophobic. It’s made worse during the times that I can’t relax and be myself, such as last night.

Socialising in India is quite the opposite of socialising at home. At home, we would go to a friends house, and everyone would sit down together for a chat over a glass of wine or beer. Soon after, we’d move to the dining table where dinner would be served. Everyone would sit down there together and start eating, including the women. In India, it’s traditionally quite different. (Although socialising with my husband and his friends is quite like in the west).

As soon as we arrived last night, I was called into the kitchen with the other women, while the men remained in the living room. Dinner was yet to be cooked, so the women set about preparing it. I chatted briefly to the auntie in Hindi (because neither her nor the uncle speak English), and tried to learn as much as possible from the cooking.

Soon the kitchen was so hot and smokey, I couldn’t bare to be in it any more. My face was covered in a blanket of sweat. Uncle started serving beer and asked me if I wanted any. Of course I felt compelled to say no, although I was thinking the very opposite.

Soon, I had to leave the kitchen because it was too uncomfortable for me in there. It would’ve been inappropriate for me to go and join the men, so I was shown into another living room. There, I spent half an hour entertaining myself alone while the women tended to dinner and the men. Most of the time, I spent gazing out the window and into other people’s apartments. I appreciated that it was a rare opportunity for me to observe people and not be observed in return.

After a while though, I began to feel quite sorry for myself. I’m usually content in my own company, but I longed to be able to relax and join in the socialising. I missed the freedom and ease of my social life at home. I missed free flowing conversation, where I wasn’t limited to understanding only 25% of what was being said and giving one sentence responses, due to my lack of Hindi. Uncle kept offering me beer. Even my sister-in-law gave in and told me I could have some (she obviously started feeling sorry for me too). But I declined. Where’s the fun in sitting alone and drinking?

I didn’t have a bad night last night. Some parts of it were fun. I even laughed from time to time. For most of it though, I just felt very very lost. This caused me to confront my husband when we got home. I wanted to know why he hadn’t been of more help and support to me. Why couldn’t he have come to check on me and be with me?

His response was that he thought I was fine in the kitchen with the women. He also said it would’ve been rude for him to get up and leave the room once the serving of food had started (and food, starting with snacks, had been served very early on).

But I wasn’t feeling well! And I can’t hold a conversation in Hindi (let alone Marathi, which they were also speaking)! How could I be okay. Sometimes I just want to throw aside good Indian manners! And, sometimes I don’t think my husband realises all the sacrifices I make here for the sake of trying to display good manners (or even just for daily life in India).

I’m going back to Australia for a holiday next month, and I think it’s going to be very timely. I obviously really need to recharge myself and get my groove back!

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{ 66 comments… read them below or add one }

Anilu October 27, 2009 at 11:25 pm

Sharell,
I love to read you. I find your blog inspiring and lets me see an outsider point of view to India. I was reading your post last night and truly felt what you might have been going through. I live in Scotland but just married a Bangalorean. My in-laws organised a reception for us in India. My FIL drinks whiskey but I didn’t know they would not serve alcohol in any function, well not even Coca Cola, just room-temp water. Shock! The day before our Indian reception, my hubby and his cousins disappeared for a while saying they would pick something up. Later I learned they had a drink somewhere else and some of the cousins were pretty wasted with only 2 pegs of whiskey. They arrived late and I was fuming. My hubby was apologetic but said it’s the first time the older cousins talk to him man-to-man. Anyway, I felt weird and out of place, just like you did but I didn’t even know what was going on. I was also lucky that almost everyone speaks English.
What I feel is that here in Scotland my hubby and I are a unity, 2 outsiders against the world but in India I think he might be too comfy and I will be the only odd one out. Still.. who knows..
I am Mexican so I’m happy to hear some aunties enjoy their Margaritas!
Eileen, I relate to you since I am the latinamerican half of my relationship. But nowhere I’ve been has pouring your own wine been considered too forward.

SM October 28, 2009 at 2:22 am

In all the parties that I throw, I insist that the ladies eat first(even if some of them initially used to politely refuse). This is practical from many points of view- Women usually eat fast and eat less, they don’t take much time. By the time the ladies are done,the men are still sipping their drinks and having their appetizers. The husbands will also do the babysitting at that time if the kids are very young. After the women are done, the men take their own sweet time with the main courses and desserts and the women take care of the kids during that time. This way neither party has to stay too hungry or too bored nor wait a long time for the other to get finished.

When my in-laws came for a visit, sometimes I used to have dinner before my husband when he was caught up in work or busy with something else. I explained to my in-laws that this is because I have gastric problem (and can not stay on empty stomach for long). They eventually accepted this.

In my side of our Bengali family, the women and men have food at the same time. But in more traditional settings like my husband’s side of a North Indian family, I have seen that the women always have food later. When I went to visit my husband’s relatives the first time after marriage, I too starved till late at night (as late as 11 pm and this was no special party day, just a regular dinner day!) and took food only with or after my husband. But this time when we go for a visit,I am going to tell them of the same gastric problem and either have food on time or arm myself with my own stock of biscuits/snacks.

Social norms are what we make of them. And as I said earlier, even traditions differ from one region to another, from one family to another. It is best to maintain a balance between the traditional and the modern in a way that keeps your sanity (and health) intact.

Sharell October 28, 2009 at 12:23 pm

Anilu, that’s an interesting story too. I would’ve been bothered too about the guys going off and drinking like that. It is common though. My husband has two different sets of friends — the ones I’m allowed to join him for drinks with, and the ones I aren’t! The ones I can join in with are the cosmopolitan, western type ones who behave just like any western guy. We socialise together just like in the west. He met most of them during his time in the music industry. The ones I aren’t allowed to join in with are the ones who go off and drink in a park, in a group, away from their wives. Most of them, he’s known since childhood. Fortunately, he doesn’t have a lot to do with them anymore these days. He doesn’t see much point to their behaviour.

Anyway, some good has come from all the time I spent in the kitchen at the dinner gathering. I learned to cook a new prawn dish, which I made for my husband last night. He was rapt! :-) It was such an easy recipe too. When I make it again, I’ll take some photos and write about it here.

Abdullah K. October 28, 2009 at 4:37 pm

Handy tip: The next time there is a Diwali, use a noise cancelling headphone and play any music you like to block out the noise. This works for me in Delhi, where the Diwali crowd gets really animalistic. I am sure you husband, who is a DJ, would have a good set.

Also when there is a Holi, avoid going out of the house unaccompanied by family members. Finish all your shopping requirements a day or two before. It is another festival where women, especially pretty women are quite vulnerable to the bhang-stoned melee of sexually deprived Indian youngsters.

anjeneyan anjeneyan.wordpress.com October 28, 2009 at 5:32 pm

I find your blogs hugely interesting. Your interesting perspective of India and its inhabitants makes good reading. I will try to read all your blogs when I get time.

Best wishes and do keep posting.

Anjeneyan

Di October 30, 2009 at 6:24 am

Anilu- would love to hear from you as I am also Mexican married to a Bangalorian. Do you know any other Latino-Indian couples?

Chee Chee October 30, 2009 at 7:40 pm

Abdullah K, do you have a website or blog?

Abdullah K. October 30, 2009 at 8:17 pm

@ Chee Chee – “Abdullah K, do you have a website or blog?”

I have one but I haven’t updated it for a very long time. Haven’t had much time for a blog anyway. I had a photolog but I closed it in favour of my Youtube channel where all I do is promote my pub.

Lou November 4, 2009 at 1:10 am

I have been reading your blog and wonder how you do it. I am an american woman married to an Indian man for almost 8 years. While we currently reside in the US, we have spent a significant amount of time in India. My husband would someday like to live in India again, but the story you just described is my biggest reason for not wanting to live there. Very few of my husbands friends or family speak english reasonably well, and while I have learned his language, I feel the same in that I only ever understand about 25% of what is going on. This situation occurs on almost a daily basis when we are in India and every time i get so upset I don’t even recognize myself. Have you met friends there that you are totally at ease with and enjoy like I’m sure you had in Australia?

Sharell November 4, 2009 at 11:35 am

Hi Lou, my gosh, I don’t think I could handle it on a daily basis either. I really need my “normal” days, which fortunately I do have plenty of. These interactions don’t occur that often for me. If they did, I think I’d be going crazy! I’m fortunate I do have friends that I’m at ease with. It really makes a difference. :-) The first year is the hardest, but after that I’ve found that I’m much more comfortable being here. It’s kind of like moving to a new city, but harder!

Anilu November 4, 2009 at 5:27 pm

Di, can’t believe it! Another latin-indian couple. So excited. Please do email me to share experiences :) I have a grossly out of date blog so you can find my details there. It’s http://www.mexicoinuk.blogspot.com
Where do you guys live?
I only know of a Costa Rican married to an Indian and living in Germany. Will find her blog and tell you.
Que emocion!

linda lindiasindia.net December 4, 2009 at 3:35 am

“I was called into the kitchen with the other women, while the men remained in the living room. Dinner was yet to be cooked, so the women set about preparing it.”

oh my god. 20 years ago I lived outside Dallas, Texas and we went to a football party on a Sunday and that’s exactly what happened! Uh, not me…not this smart ass liberal woman from the North — I sat with the men.

So it doesn’t only happen in India!

Sharell December 4, 2009 at 3:51 am

Come to think of it, we have a bit of that culture in Australia when it comes to having barbecues. The women go into the kitchen to prepare the salad, while the men fiercely guard the BBQ and cook the meat like cave men. ;-)

ravsy January 9, 2010 at 12:37 pm

well………………….i really found ur blogs vv interesting. So a question that hovers my mind is that whether you would have been more happier had not u married an Indian ? and whether other foreign girls should feel encouraged in entering into such marriages and staying in India..

Sharell January 9, 2010 at 1:55 pm

Hi Ravsy, excellent question. I had a very long term relationship with someone from Australia and it ended really badly (he had had a very unstable upbringing with divorced parents, and it reflected in his personality — he was very unsettled and decided he didn’t want to be with me anymore), which I guess is part of the reason why a different kind of relationship appeals to me so much. I really appreciate India’s family values, stability, and commitment that is becoming very lacking in the west. I didn’t know that I would end up in India married to an Indian guy, and sometimes I do miss the ease of being with someone from my own culture. However, I do know for sure, from experience, that being with someone from my culture is no guarantee of my happiness. I can’t really say whether other foreign girls should feel encouraged to enter into marriage with an Indian guy and stay in India. It really depends on personal circumstances and goals in life. I was ready to try something different, I really needed a change of environment, and new experiences in order to grow. After my relationship ended, I realised I wasn’t feeling fulfilled with what I was doing with my life — particularly work. So I was at a point in my life where change needed to come. Perhaps I wouldn’t recommend what I’ve done for younger women. I was just over 30 years old when I came here to India, so I’d already experienced much of life, and had a more mature outlook. I’d already travelled widely, and lived my life well. I do feel that younger women may not be so mentally equipped to be able to readily deal with living in India. It can be quite challenging — a person really does need to be willing to adapt a lot, and be open minded and accepting. I struggle with missing my friends and family, and old lifestyle at times. However, I think maybe it’s easier to deal with because I’m older. I’ve done everything I wanted to back home. I don’t feel like I’m missing out. Now when I visit home, I see everyone doing the same old thing, and I’m glad that I’m not one of them! I’m living my life with passion and heart, and love each day. Life doesn’t bore me one bit, and I have the freedom to explore so many new things! I think one other important factor with my situation is that I had already spent considerable time in India before getting married and moving here. I’d known my husband for two years before we got married. I didn’t just meet a guy, get married, and then shift to India to be with him without having much knowledge of India and the living environment. I fully knew what I was getting myself into, and already had developed a love of India. That made it much easier for me to fit into life here. I hope this answer helps. :-)

Adi March 1, 2010 at 6:44 am

Hi Sharell,

I am an Indian woman living in Illinois. I moved to the US when I was around 20, 8 yrs ago … I was raised in small-town India – mostly in the north. I am married to an Indian guy from Bihar (from a relatively conservative family). I’ve been reading your blogs and I do feel you’re putting up with a lot. You don’t seem to mind, but the fact that you feel claustrophobic on some difficult days, makes me wonder if you shouldn’t just be a 100% true to yourself and your most comfortable self rather than trying to fit in. I am a new daughter-in-law, and I have struggled coming to terms with the fact that my parents in law will never be as easy-going and non-interefering as my parents. But I decided that I’m going to stay exactly the same person I was before marriage. I am not going to wear sarees, salwar kameezes. I am going to drink. I am not going to do anything that my husband wouldn’t be asked to do by my parents or his parents. I don’t want anyone to have double standards with me. Just relax, be yourself, discover India in deeper, more meaningful ways, stay safe (so dress accordingly), make friends with like-minded, progressive women(that shouldn’t be difficult), work somewhere(anywhere) and make a life for yourself in India. Have fun .. Dont be bothered too much about what your in-laws or other Indians will think. I lie to my in-laws and spend extra time with my parents when I visit India. I hide the fact that my husband and I travel by ourselves in and outside India. I have to do all this because my in-laws won’t feel happy for our sakes. Instead they’d be jealous or possessive or just negative. But this works for my husband and me. We go on living with honesty towards each other and our dreams and a bit of dishonesty spares my in-laws and us from a lot of rsentment and ill-will.

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