Less than six weeks ago, before we went on holiday, there was only an old, grey brick wall here. If you look carefully at the photo, you’ll be able to see it. It’s a little more than waist high, and has a different pattern to the top half of the structure.
During the time that we were away, the wall was built upon. Bricks were laid and a tin roof added, enclosing the wall, but with a small gap left at the front to serve as a counter. The wall had been turned into a shop. A fast food shop.
Someone had been very enterprising and recognised a fabulous opportunity. The shop is located right in front of the auto rickshaw stand, on the road opposite our apartment complex. A steady stream of customers, particularly auto rickshaw drivers, is guaranteed. The shop caters for them perfectly by selling cigarettes, chai (tea), masala paan, biscuits, and even vada pav. Apparently, the vendor also plans to start selling south Indian food, such as idli and sambar.
However, a peek inside the shop left me feeling a little incredulous. There’s no power and no running water. And it’s not exactly hygienic. No food safety inspector would allow it to operate.
Not to mention, it’s unsightly. Surely, at least a little baksheesh must have been paid to the authorities to allow its construction. Hiranandani Gardens is a planned development area. This is what the rest of the street looks like.
But does it really matter? Money is being earned. People’s needs are being met. And India continues to be a country of extreme contrasts.
© 2011, Diary of a White Indian Housewife. All rights reserved. Do not copy and reproduce text or images without permission.
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{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }
the divide between the rich and poor is really big in the cities … with inflation going up it is impossible for senior citizens to manage with their savings … and this kind of establishments is the only option … looks like it is managed by some old guy when you clicked the interiors…
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looking at the last pic ..the lane seems like it leads to D-Mart and Crosswords.isnt it??….such shops(tapri) are temporary ….its usually for the construction workers and rickshawalla ……cant expect the construction workers to go to Aura or Pizza Hut …..if it is nuisance you can always speak to Hiranandani authorities ….or lodge a complaint at Commando House
Yup, hygiene is never a concern to the vast majority in India. Even I’m not too fussy about it, but as long as they maintain a basic minimum levels – however this doesn’t seem to be the case either.
Though, given the kind of rents and prices in Hiranandani (and rest of Mumbai), I wouldn’t expect any legitimate shop being able to cater to lower strata of society. They have to be illegal (and thus ensuring some money to police).
there is a recent book by patrick french – India: A portrait. It is not a “india shinning” book but despite all challenges India faces the author is gung ho about the future of the country.
I have recently ordered the book, and yet to read it but from the reviews and interviews it seems that the one of reasons behind the optimism , is entrepreneurship. which (together with pluralism) according to the author sets India apart from other countries.
honestly though i am very suspicious of the claim that india is more entrepreneurial than other countries .
I worry that it’s possible that corruption will stifle that spirit. If this guy has to pay off the police, the babus, the local housing association…
Well, the result will be hungry taxi drivers, which is but one need that is unmet. Others will follow.
Sharell,
You are not the only famous person who likes Rikshas
http://www.samachar.com/Ranbir-takes-rickshaw-ride-after-Hum-Dono-premiere-lcfrMcdgcbf.html
Yes, this is India… You can get away with pretty much anything if you pay the authorities something…
Very sad but atleast a poor man is earning his living…
My Yatra Diary…
I lived close to this place about 10 years ago. Hiranandani was “relativel” new and i was near about Raheja Vihar about couple of blocks away.
However I think while India is prospering and growing the biggest money earning opportunity that India fails to capitalize is “Hygiene”. What the Indian government need to realize is that – more the focus on hygiene the more people will be needed to maintain India clean and clear and the more the jobs and hence more the eradication of poverty. Lack of Hygiene time and again is stated as a “chalta firta” attitude (for all non desis) it essentially means that its accepted as de facto.
No idea when India will wake up to this fact and realize its the biggest opportunity for India, just like construction of road ways to add another odd 50 or so billion dollars to its already growing economy. Its a chain reaction with unlimited benefits!
Rabbit thats an effective business idea. A private company which takes contract with municipal council to keep the area clean..it could work..anyone willing to explore on this, also do such companies already exsist?
ya thats an idea with good potential in india. one of my friends is exploring this idea
After being away from Mumbai for 7 years my husband and I couldn’t recognize any part of his old neighborhood until we were directly in front of his parents flat. It was amazing to see all the new buildings in Bandra. At the same time old habits don’t die easily. Looking at all the trash on the side of the road and the disregard for keeping a sanitary living environment just drives me insane.
This service is meant to cater to the ‘help’ employed at Hiranandani. The contrast you allude to is obviously the one between say, Aromas and this place. Aromas caters to the biggies living in one of the high rises. Now consider labor that comes in from Dharavi or a suburb to work in construction, restaurants or the offices here. A sizable portion of them will want to have tea and snacks every once a while. This segment is ‘inelastic’ to hygiene factors and therefore you have places like this in posh Hiranandani.
I have a childhood friend from boarding school in N. India who’s now a health journalist in Mumbai and who lives on Chimbai Rd., Bandra. Is that the same type of neighborhood as “posh Hiranandani?” Just curious. You’d love this friend of mine: vivacious, extremely bright (Bryn Mawr [US] graduate), and delightfully curious. As to random new eateries that have popped up in your neighborhood, all I can think of is . . . someone bought someone off. The shopkeeper may look elderly, but is he the confirmed owner of the shop? Things aren’t always what they seem.
ohh i am sure all mumbaiites are familiar with this sight! It takes hardly a day to build up a small comfortable pigeon hole kinda set up anywhere in Mumbai. That explains the growing number of slums in and around Mumbai. Give the authorities what they want, and you can ensure a roof over your head in no time!!! No rules and regulations here….
LOL.. welcome back to our world.. which is as much yours now!!! Your vacation however long or brief (depending on your mood) shielded you from the paradoxes that define India, but its time to face the music now, in a manner of speaking!! C’est la vie!
Good to have you back tho!
Face the music…. and the ongoing crowd of staring men that now linger around this new establishment.
Ah, it used to be such a peaceful street!
yeah well, no matter how Indian you may become in your approach to life, you cant ever hide the white skin!!
But I’m light brown now. I have a tan.
Use fair and lovely!
Hahah, I have a secret. Brown is actually better.
Brown is actually better if you are referring to brown rice or brown bread…
We had this problem of fast-food-stalls springing up near our residence in Pune.
The huge crowds of young people that would gather at these food-stalls ended up completely ruining the tranquility of the neighborhood.
We, the residents of the area, submitted a formal complaint to the Municipal Authorities. Within 3 months of our complaint, the stalls were removed, and tranquility was restored to our area.
All praise to the Municipal Authorities for taking just, prompt and effective action.
Only food-stalls that are actually licensed by the Municipal Authorities to operate may do so. An unlicensed food-stall is illegal. It’s quite a straightforward matter.
But, do proceed with caution. You want to be very careful, when dealing with such matters, because in Mumbai, there are always some Mafia godfathers involved in all matters.
Interesting observation. About the hygiene, you don’t really need power and running water to keep a place clean. I’ve eaten at so many such places in india. It all comes down to the standards of the owners and operators.
In india, in order for ordinary people to make an income they need less emphasis on standards otherwise they simply could not afford to go into business. Here’s its pretty crippling if you want to sell food. If the jobs aren’t there, what are people to do.
I think its good that people can set themselves up easily. The onus should be also on the customer. If a place is dirty, don’t go there.
@ Sharell,
with all these men staring i am a lil worried to get my white chick to India now… i am sure she will start throwing some fist and punches here and there… and knowing Indian men am sure they will leave her and beat the next available candidate which am sure gonna be me…
i think i will start staring at her awkwardly from today onwards… hopefully if i do it day and night – she will get used to it in a couple of months….
If your girl starts using her fist, you can use your legs and run away from danger…
yeah boy i sure damn can run fast
In all honestly, I nearly threw a punch the other day. A guy walked past me and murmured “I want to f..k you.” I had to restrain myself from turning around and slamming his head into the fence.
It really isn’t nice for women here sometimes.
@ Sharell – the first thing i taught Nat is meaning of A*** in hindi and some other vital stats in hindi and i also trained here where ever she hears it she shld just turn around and say : “M***** F***** (IN HINDI) – so usually thats pretty much embarrassing for any man …
On a different note… being born and brought up in India i sure can kick a lot of arse… its just that it will spoil the essence of her experience…
in all fairness – US clubs are not any different you know… African American men here pass a whole lot of lousy comments and a times even start physical contacts just like some crazy by standards in India…
No electricity, no running water. But still working properly (if people keep coming back then at least the chai is good). Guess this is the way to survive in India.
Food stalls like this exist because they cater to the kind of people with marginal finances, who can’t afford to price of hygiene. Driving away these stalls would not only take this old man out of business, but leave a lot of people hungry and unable to afford to eat.